What to do in Aarhus, Denmark
Nearly two years after living in Aarhus, Denmark, as a U.S. Fulbright Scholar, I returned to Aarhus, spending this summer with my family in the same house we rented in 2024.
It was hot in Aarhus. And I know hot. I am accustomed to 45°C (113°F) summers. But the desert doesn’t have the humidity Denmark does, and unlike Danish houses, Phoenix homes have air conditioning. Denmark’s record-breaking temperatures (37°C, about 98.6°F) inspired me to avail myself of something else Danes have that Phoenicians do not: a basement. I dragged my mattress down the stairs and resourcefully slept in cool, underground air.
I enjoyed being back. Leaving again was bittersweet. My family and I discussed our favorite things to do in Aarhus, particularly things we hope to do again if we are lucky enough to return. I share them below, in no particular order.
ARoS Museum. Even if you’re not “into art,” this is worth your time. “Aros” is the Old Norse name for Aarhus. (And also the name of a river in Middle-earth, but more on J.R.R. Tolkien later.) There are about 300 years of Danish art history featured in this museum. Probably the most famous is “Your rainbow panorama,” by Olafur Eliasson, which is on the museum’s roof. This is an enclosed, circular walkway in which a person can view Aarhus through rainbow-tinted glass. Ron Mueck’s "Boy" is a huge, lifelike statue that has also become a museum staple. There is also a trippy black-and-white exhibit will play with your eyes, and in a mini movie theatre, an obese gray cat swears about politics and social media.
Moesgaard Museum: Among the highest-quality museums I’ve seen anywhere. The most famous exhibit is probably Grauballe Man, a 2,300-year-old body that was preserved in a bog. Guests explore Denmark via the Stone, Bronze, Iron, Viking, and Middle ages. My favorite is the Viking Age. At the beginning of the exhibit, there are amulets that represent a specific person or type of person from that age. Scan the amulet at various exhibits, and you’ll hear a narrated perspective. How you experience the exhibit depends on whose amulet you grab, and that person's status in society.
Svanedam: West of Tivoli Friheden, north of Ceres Park, and about 350 meters east of our house is Havreballe Skov (“Oat Ball Forest”). This is a beautiful, shaded place to run, with trails weaving through trees and ponds, and an obstacle course on the park’s eastern side. Whether the ducks are overly friendly or borderline aggressive is up to interpretation. They are accustomed to humans feeding them, despite signage encouraging otherwise. World War II-era bunkers in the forest are still visible. You can also easily see Tivoli Friheden’s Sky Tower, from which people often scream as they free fall about 30 meters (98 feet) into a net.
Tivoli Friheden: Established in 1904 as a way for city dwellers to break from the crowded downtown, Tivoli Friheden is a gorgeous amusement park and concert venue. Before I moved to the basement, I could hear various concerts at night through my open bedroom window. There are rides and experiences for all ages, and the park’s flower-covered landscaped is impressive. Family favorites are the Vindfald roller coaster; the hjertekig, a 65-meter tower that drops its passengers in a spinning gondola; and tyfonen, which is a combination of a roller coaster and a spinning tea cup. The zipline costs extra, but it’s worth it.
Tangkrogen: This is our “go to” beach, since it’s closest to our house. We were there almost daily, along with what-seemed-like most of Aarhus. I had a noteworthy stash of amber my family and I found by sifting through rocks on the shoreline. But a diaper-wearing beachgoer grabbed a handful and toddled away, shouting something my poor Danish-language skills did not equip me to decipher.
Marselisborg Deer Park. Founded in 1932, this was closed each time we tried to visit in 2024 because too many people were feeding the fallow deer. Please, do not feed the deer. With calm, slow movements, you can walk up to them and pet them. That in itself makes this worthwhile.
Desert Botanical Garden: The greenhouses feature plants from four different climate zones: Mediterranean, desert, mountain forests, and tropical rainforests. It won’t take long to walk through them, and admission is free. But it’s worth seeing. Everything is well maintained and the plants are breathtaking. The playground north of the circular parking lot is fun to do when you’re done seeing the botanical garden. There is a fountain/sculpture that carries water like a twisting river down multiple steps. Creating dams in these rivers, then removing the dams to watch the water rush through the model, is satisfying.
Den Gamle By: An award-winning, outdoor museum that is absolutely worth admission. The "town" is organized by specific eras in Danish history, such as 1864, 1927, 1974 and 2014. Within each “neighborhood,” you explore houses, stores, schools, clinics, and/or workshops authentic to their respective time period. There is also an exhibit explaining the history of Aarhus. The festival grounds are typically children's favorite.
Mindeparken: Founded by King Christian X in 1925, this is a large park space next to Marselisborg Palace and uphill from the breezy Bay of Aarhus. There is a botanical garden, sculptures, a Japanese cherry grove, a playground, an ice cream kiosk, and my favorite, a maze cut out of a hedge. This is a great place to play hide and seek. There are holes within the hedge, so small children can crawl within the hedge to avoid detection.
Though not in Aarhus, I recommend a trip to Djurs Sommerland, Scandinavia’s biggest waterpark. The park is organized by themes: Dinosaur-land, Pirate-land, Farmland, Asia, Mexico, Western USA, Waterland, Viking-land, and Summerland. I had crossed into Western USA for several minutes before I did a double take, recalling that this is Denmark and not Arizona. Authentic recreations, down to the cowboy hats.
Kalø Castle: Ruins of ancient castle built by Erik Menved after his victory in the Jutland Peasant Uprising in 1313. This is about a 40-kilometer drive from downtown Aarhus, and is a must-see for J.R.R. Tolkien fans. Tolkien, a University of Oxford professor and fantasy author, incorporated numerous elements of Old Norse and early Danish legends into his stories about Middle Earth. These ruins definitely have a Middle Earth feel to them.